Japan Day 2

I got up early again and headed to Harajuku. I wandered into a narrow alley packed with small shops, most of them still closed, but even shuttered it had character—part Hot Topic, part candy store, with pastel colors and sweet smells lingering in the air.

I had gone to Harajuku expecting to see cosplayers everywhere, but I never did. Instead, I stumbled upon Meiji Shrine. The transition was striking: one moment city streets, the next a vast, peaceful forest. Towering trees surrounded the shrine, and the space felt enormous and calm, a quiet counterpoint to the rest of Tokyo.

After leaving the shrine, I passed an event center where a popular singer or rapper was scheduled to perform later that day. I spent about thirty minutes trying—and failing—to buy tickets, only to discover the website required a Japanese address. So close, again.

Next stop: Shinjuku.

The red-light district there is endlessly fascinating and immediately became my favorite area of Tokyo. Neon signs, crowds flowing in every direction, and a giant Godzilla head looming over the main street like it’s keeping watch. A boy band performed nearby and seemed to go on for hours, drawing a steady crowd the entire time.

I found an Italian restaurant and couldn’t resist trying it. The noodles were undercooked by my standards, but the sauce was excellent, so I called it a win. Later, I discovered an “Irish pub” offering Jameson shots for about four dollars. Hell yes.

Not far from there, I wandered into a tiny bar run by a Japanese bartender who wore suspenders, a newsboy cap, and spoke with what sounded like a full English accent. I knew immediately this was a place I’d be coming back to—a lot.

I headed back to the hotel for a quick nap, still trying to wrap my head around Tokyo’s multi-company train system and how not to accidentally overspend every time I swipe in.

That night, I returned to Shinjuku. I ran into the bartender again—this time off work—hanging out with who I assumed was his girlfriend and another guy. At some point, a fight broke out between the bartender and the other guy. I had no idea what started it. Things unraveled quickly: the bartender got sloppily drunk, the girlfriend was barely standing, and the chaos unfolded casually around us.

Honestly? This place is great.